Formerly reputed as the ‘Paris’ of the Middle East and one of the oldest cities in the world. Often synonymous with trouble; say the word Beirut, and for many, images of devastation and civil war are hard to suppress. Strategically significant, religiously and culturally diverse. A haven for refugees from Palestine, Iraq, Armenia and Syria. Areas such as Bourj Hammoud, Shatila and Sabra have turbulent, even violent, histories as refugee camps. The city is paradoxically characterised by hospitality and tolerance, moderated by prominent military security. A 5000 year history, Beirut is undergoing another chaotic evolution. I encountered this eclectic city for six days.